(Click on pictures to enlarge)
was for some time been planning this trip to the photo Bivouac Combi-Lanza, stimulated Article read on the site of a skilled nature photographer, but want to unfavorable weather , want to another, I always had to postpone. Saturday, 21 November 2009 finally seem to be any conditions to leave, despite a bit 'of sore throat and cold principles of good even the day before, almost as if fate wanted again to put a spoke in the wheels.
The plan is to get to Alpe Devero noon, eat and then walk towards the hut, which is expected to reach around 16 / 16:30, photograph the sunset from the bivouac area and spend the night with a sleeping bag, waking up early for some pictures at night and at dawn and after that return to home, thinking of arriving mid-afternoon at most.
are 9.15 am departure, after checking several times that I have read all (when I leave I always feel that I missed something). I can not say that there is time, the sky is gray, but simply do not understand whether it is cloudy or if there is fog, but it does not matter, what matters is that the sunny weather where I'm going to give, and so it is! :) I can
wrong road 2 times (once a mistake and end up in motorway Varese, the second I leave the state when in fact I preseguire, the substance of the information is not always clear who is on the way) before you see the sign for Crodo . I come out here from SS33, and continuous Crodo step on the road to Baceno. In the center finally I see the sign for "Alpe Devero," or simply "Devero". From here the road gets really narrow and dangerous, some corners are blind and there is only room for one car, so I have the alarm bells and the first foot on the brake. You begin to see signs that indicate parking fee later and this is the only confirmation I have to be on the right track, because in a couple of points the road splits and there are no signs to follow (or at least I have not seen them). I am in good time nonostate has 'strayed' 2 times and while I stop I get 5 minutes to do some pictures.
Check the canopy, where you pay parking, are about 12 and the attendant tells me that if the day after they leave for the time that I expect (more or less what they are arrived) I have to pay the fee for two days, since that rate is up at 9 am; annoys me a bit 'pay double for a few hours of difference but as the total price (10 euro) is not as exaggerated Lavaredo what I paid (20 € for one day), I accept and go on. The road here is at times shocking, you pass two times in real caves, tunnels, rather than even, I seem to be almost in a mine! Check the parking lot which I think is quite new: an outdoor area is well maintained but there is also an underground area covered (LPG machines excluded). Opto to park in one day since I'll be away and that for the late morning on Sunday is scheduled cloudy with slight chance of rain. I took the ski pants and snow boots thinking about the possibility of finding the snow at the top but looking to the eye does not seem there's a lot, so I put only boots, fasten your sleeping bag to a backpack, I take the tripod and walked towards the village which is 100 meters higher up.
Alpe Devero is a small but beautiful mountain town, surrounded by the Alps, I enter a little and now I see many indications. The place has many hotels, bars and restaurants, there are also signs for toilets and an information center for tourists (though I can not see). I look a bit 'round and then I went toward the west in "Piedimonte City, where the path should start. As I walk I see a small shed and under the aluminum tanks with continuous water taps, drink a mouthful: the water is good and cold. Later I stopped at an inn to eat something of fast, to be honest I'm not very hungry but I would not find me hungry later so I take a sandwich and an iced tea, ask for confirmation of the path and allotment. Step beyond the chair and hit a group of houses as you move to the center of the country, a sign here and the classic signs painted paint me confirm the start of the trail (follow the signs for 'Combi-Lanza' or 'Val Buscagna ').
's been just 13 when I start the climb through the trees on a carpet of orange needles now fallen from the branches and the trail is easy and very visible, I did expect colder the temperature is pleasant and the sun is very hot , so that some sudo 'despite is clad only in a shirt and a sweatshirt. I only stop once for a breath and take this opportunity to take some pictures.
again a short distance and hit the Val Buscagna, without having met anyone and when are the 14 steps. Walk a short distance and hit the stone hut where I meet the first human presence, a woman who is relaxed sitting on a small stone bench in front of a hut. Here I expected to find information (as I was informed) but I see no sign and the valley is large enough, so I ask the lady if I would know to show the way and she tells me I have to cross the valley and then trace a path. Try to show me where it is located more or less the Combi-Lanza, even with the use of the camera with a telephoto lens mounted, but without success, then kindly offers to take me to the foot of the path as we speak and I still strongly discourages to go to the camp: the path is very steep and dangerous enough in the summer, let alone now that there's snow! This is a slap in the face: the information I had gathered on the internet the path is not as 'difficult, but actually look more or less eye to the area from which we go back, I realize that will not only be' a bit more difficult, "the stretch leading to the valley. We arrive and by the farmhouse is the sign for the Combi-Lanza: The first section of the ascent seem easy, the slope is not great and is a pratone with some rocks here and there, then things get complicated and you have to go through of the canyons where there is even snow. The lady tells me that if you can sleep in the house (it is open) because some of his friends did it, but call it 'house' is a buzzword: inside is more of a shed, is shabby and there is no a floor. I decide to retract the first piece (that easy) and then see how the situation in the rest of the path, eventually I'll come back if it is not feasible. Thank you the lady and she recommended "cool head", then we say goodbye. It's almost 15:30 and the shadow begins his journey of 'swallowing' of the valley. Before you start climbing snap some photos of the landscape.
begin the climb and after some difficulties begin: I'm in a fairly steep gully, there is a bit 'of snow on the course and the supports are not that great. I continue for a piece, but slowly I realize that I have to use more and more hands to balance or hang onto it, so I stopped a moment to attack the tripod, which until now had always kept in hand, backpack and then resume climbing . The stroke is difficult with every step I make sure that the right support foot is firmly on one point, in some places covered with snow instead I climb with hands as if you were going 'astride' on a ski slope. After about twenty minutes into the senitero reach the summit of the canyon only to discover the bitter truth: I came up on the wrong side, if I went up the other side where I would arrive in half the time, with half the effort and follow the path passing through the easy pratone I saw from the cottage!
Well, now what was done was done, I turned and looked up to try to judge what to do: go for the difficult path which I had just had a taste or backspace and delete my plans? To say that I chose easily the most adventurous would be a lie to say, especially in hindsight, but I just started to go up thinking, "Let's see if I can" and when I realized the actual difficulty (and danger) of the last sections of the trail, it was too late to turn back, the only prospect was to go on and reach the camp.
From where I arrived I had to spend even between two snow gullies before reaching the top of the first, the mid-term, represents the most dangerous: the slope is so great and you have to go through a bit where the water flows through rocks and snow has formed an ice slide. Fortunately the sun during the day did loosen a bit 'this part and so I can make my way, sometimes also' digging 'a step in the snow with their boots before placing the foot and take the step, sometimes clinging to branches and shrubs herbaceous to facilitate them. I keep my climbing with these unorthodox ways and blend in my head the thought that tomorrow will come down a much bigger problem of the climb that I'm doing at the time. Finally complete this part very difficult and now only the last piece separates me from the bivouac. I rest a moment and meanwhile the sun begins to set, painted in yellow tops on the opposite side of the valley so I take out my camera and snap some photos by hand, looking framing also emptied it in front of me to give the slope of the area from which have just gone up.
The second canyon that you need to travel is less dangerous, less steep and less close to the one just past, but in any case I have to be careful not to slip, so proceed carefully and assess exactly where put your feet and in any case, the snow always presents a difficulty. Here, too, sometimes I climb astride the snow using my hands. Came on the latest stretch, with rocks scattered pratone still without or with little snow, a few steps and I see that I reach the shelter in minutes. As I approach the My sense of relief and joy to be able to get there is with a mix of concern and fear at the thought that the camp can be closed (from what I read was to be always open, but you never know ...). I climb the stone steps and front door red: the test of truth. There are two handles, and I feel it opens the top half as a kind of window (throw a sigh of threshold), use the second and opens wide the entrance. They are about 16:30, time to put my things on the table and are already out with the camera equipment to shoot the last light of sunset.
After nearly an hour the light is gone and I camp in Corinth.
The facility is very nice and well kept, but most importantly it is equipped with everything! After the entrance there is a small hallway with coat hangers, various tools for repair, a tank of water, plastic trays (those blue), a medical first aid box and the box in which to put the money for ' use of the structure (4 euro per night if you are CAI members, 8 if you have not, plus 3 euro if you want to use the cooking gas cylinder or other). A door opens onto the living room / kitchen where there is a big enough table with benches and several stools. On the shelves there have candles, matches and the book of the shelter (where I write my name and some short line) with the pen. There is a gas cylinder connected to the stove, there are dishes in the various pots, frying pan, dishes and cutlery. Above is a belief with various foods and spices, pasta, sauces, salt and sugar sachets to prepare the tea, chocolate and more. In short, it is well stocked!
Another door connects the dining area to the beds, where there are camp beds bunk rows of 3, there are several blankets and pillows.
I eat my dinner (a couple of sandwiches and half apple), I shoot the spray for a sore throat (which has since passed into the background in comparison with climbing) and once I settle in my sleeping bag when you are just past 18:30. It 's the first time that I sleep in the sack, I first wrap it well and a bit' I curl up because I've pretty cool (for being out to photograph and jeans for a bit 'wet down because of snow ) but later I have to lower the zipper a bit and reach 'out to get fresh, I did not think that heating it so much! I do not know what temperature we were inside the camp but it sure was close to zero, although it sometimes had to 'freshen up' discovers a bit 'from the sleeping bag!
Fatico to sleep, after all it's early, I'm used to other times and even the effort of the day can make me collapse (even if that's what I want). I think that even two hours pass before he can finally close my eyes but my sleep is still fragmented, more than a half-sleep that sleep itself, I also do different dreams and as usual this does not help me to rest (I did the following: best pictures are blurry because of the wrong focus (in manual and in almost complete darkness). It 'was my mistake not to check carefully the focus on the camera display to verify their validity, I will serve as a lesson for next time. I still can take some clear photos before my battery 'die' in advance (much) for the cold: it was a disappointment for me, I did not expect their own, I knew that with the extreme cold can meet the equipment difficulties, especially the batteries, but overall I do not do cold and so great a drop of life seems strange. In any case, I put the battery in an inside pocket close to the body heat in hope he recovers a bit 'charge and return for breakfast.
sandwich and eat the remaining half apple Advanced, then take a pan, go out to collect the gas and turn the snow I make myself a hot tea (the water was, in a tank, but I trust they are not sure of his drinking). Every now and then cast your eye out to see to what extent is the light. I have the time to clean up and fix this I used a bit 'my stuff, then go out again to take pictures under the first rays of sunlight reaching the area of \u200b\u200bthe camp, with a battery that has fortunately taken.
After the session back, I put away all my things and get ready to descend, are 8 and a little more, I pay the camp, I put the backpack on his shoulder and I start with my head is already thinking about what will be dangerous path that awaits me.
Initially, contrary to my expectations, the descent is quite wealthy, but I almost suffered a foot wrong: I realize that the last rock on which I am about to put the foot is ricopera ice water but it is too late to stop the pass, the weight is already forward, is a fraction of a second: I un'innoquo slip on the rocks and I get along with only a slight spelatina knee after 30 seconds I feel even more evil and resume. Spending the first canyon as quickly and easily than I thought: I just crouched down and let myself slowly slipping on the snow that is neither too soft nor too icy. For a moment I pretend to get along so well with the other canyon and my hopes are raised, but the reality is quite different: they are in front of the most difficult point to pass, the area yesterday afternoon was tuttosommato walk, is now fully a slab ice because of the cold of the night. I do not know what to do, I look around to find the safest point and 'feasible' want to pass but I realize that it will be a business. The only alternative to not be passing it down from the rocks on the side but that point is very dangerous, some passages are just projecting, from there if I fall I certainly do not get along with the equipment on his back and I do not think the case. I decide to risk a slip in the channel is 'less deadly' than risk a fall among the rocks. I am very uncertain, if I make a misstep ice does not forgive me, I rate it good to spend. In the end I decided, go back a bit by holding on, where the snow is not frozen, beginning and end of the ice zone. Here the party is closer to cross and I think if I can find a foothold or just support me by one foot, one step enough for me to cross the plate before going down holding on to the other side where a little further on the path intersects . But I can not find anything to help me for sure, they are almost lying on the snow is not smooth in the end I settle the best I can and make myself brave, but as soon as the weight imbalance groped for the switch starts to slide! The first thing I think is: "No no no no no!" and I think it also said it aloud. At first I brake as I can with my feet and hands, but as soon as I take in the full sheet of ice off sketch like a splinter. E 'panic and confusion, I see for a moment emptied it in front of me, and then follows a little jump start to tip, do not understand exactly what is happening, where and against what I'm going to slam (or slam), I understand that only the speed is high and that I'm risking. From the few snippets that I see while tumbling down at top speed I can 'connect' and only white rocks, I have only one thought in mind: "I slam my head and now we rest," and while I hope in my heart that this is done, the rest in waiting to see what will happen to me. Suddenly I find myself still sitting in the sun and in the face. I do not know how the hell did not stop but I am still with the sun in your face and breath breath, while a slight injection of relief is the space between the shock and fear. I was not thinking clearly yet, but I think I have passed through the antechamber of the brain something like half pig, lucky dog. " It had had the luck! The fortune in misfortune, of course, but I did make the flight, in a narrow channel between rocks and ice, and never let the skin, it means having only played a stroke of luck that all the backlog I had a missed just the past 24 years! I think the lady in the back days before I had recommended warned of the dangers and I think maybe he was right, I also wonder if it was worth risking my life for just 4 pictures and a silly adventure. As soon as I
back a bit 'of clarity I give myself a computer and watching the injuries: his left leg is sore in the area of \u200b\u200bthe quadriceps but I can move it so I guess it's just a hit, my back gets a bit' hurts when I move always at the left, but it's not stopping me, fortunately I did not hit my head and it does not seem to have nothing broken. Step to control the equipment. I lost my glasses during the fall and the water bottle and splashed down in front of me when I stopped, otherwise it all seems in place: the pack has held up well and has no broken bones, even a lace, the bag Sleeping is soft and then had no problems and the tripod looks good, is just a little 'clinging coupling in the straps but neither appears to have been broken nor dents. I think it's strange, I thought I heard something was torn away during the fall and instead is all intact, just as well. Back on my feet, I load (a little 'sore) all in the shoulder and resume, limping slightly, the path.
Fortunately with my dangerous fall had arrived almost at the bottom of canyon and from there on, the path would have been quite so easy in spite of some physical disability and more than an hour's drive ahead, somehow I can reach the car park and the car where, with some pain I change my shoes, pants dirty and broken and I start driving. More than 2 ½ hours Driving separate me from home, where hardly come down from the seat and my barrel cost me several days of absence from work and extreme pain when moving the most common.
They say that wrong is learned, it will have the opportunity after the mistake, I would add. Mine was a great imprudence, which resolved after all, but I hope it has served to impress in his head that sometimes you just have to accept that not everything goes as planned and when something is dangerous, is dangerous and just not it can deal with a "I will manage it, otherwise we risk really major.
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